Stock cabinetry is manufactured in fixed sizes and priced accordingly. Custom cabinets are built to your walls, cost more, and waste zero space.

Most Central Texas kitchens can go either way. The categories below are where the difference shows up:

Before you go either direction, there’s also a middle tier worth knowing about: semi-custom cabinets. But before we get to that third option, let’s compare these two options in detail.

Cost

Cabinetry is usually the largest line item in a kitchen budget, and the range can be wide. 

In our projects, stock cabinets generally land between $3,000 and $8,000, while full custom starts around $25,000. Both sit inside overall kitchen remodels of $18,000 to $100,000 and up. 

The higher number buys better fit and construction quality.

Fit and Sizing

Stock lines are built in three-inch width increments, so your kitchen gets fitted to the nearest box and the leftover inches get covered with filler strips. 

In a long, regular run, that’s barely noticeable. In a galley kitchen or a space with a bumped-out chimney, those fillers can eat a foot of storage.

Custom cabinetry is measured to the actual wall, including the out-of-square corners older Central Texas homes have plenty of.

Lead Time

Stock wins here without much argument. 

Many stock lines sit in a warehouse and arrive in days or a couple of weeks. Custom is built from scratch after your drawings are approved, which adds weeks before anything ships.

If a move-in date or a family event drives your schedule, a quick lead time may make the choice for you.

Materials and Construction

Quality shows in the box. Stock boxes commonly use particleboard or MDF with a laminate skin. Custom shops typically build plywood boxes with dovetailed drawers and solid hardwood face frames.

Keep in mind that composite panels aren’t automatically a problem. Under TSCA Title VI, hardwood plywood, MDF, and particleboard in finished goods like cabinets must meet federal formaldehyde emission standards and carry compliant labeling.

Style and Finish Options

Stock catalogs offer a limited set of door styles and color options, which can help when decision fatigue sets in. 

Meanwhile, custom gives you complete control to go after the look you want: you pick the wood species, the paint or stain colors, and the door profile. 

See our breakdown of Shaker-style cabinets, one of the most popular door profiles.

Storage and Interior Features

Stock cabinets come with adjustable shelves and standard drawers. Add-ons exist, but they’re catalog items that have to fit the standard box.

Custom is where storage issues get truly solved. You can get a pull-out pantry sized to your cans, drawers deep enough for stock pots, or appliance garages that hide counter clutter. 

In a small space, that’s the strongest argument for spending up.

Durability

Both options last a long time when the installation work is done well. The difference shows in the moving parts and the moisture zones. 

Plywood handles a dishwasher leak better than particleboard, and full-extension soft-close hardware outlasts basic slides by a wide margin.

Going stock? Put the upgrade money into hinges and glides. It buys more longevity than the door style will.

Resale Value

Buyers notice a kitchen that fits its space. Cabinetry running to the ceiling with no awkward gaps reads as intentional, and good design achieves that within any tier. 

Custom pays off most in higher-end homes where a stock kitchen looks undersized.

Semi-Custom: The Middle Ground Most Kitchens Land On

The comparison above leaves out the tier most homeowners actually buy. 

Semi-custom sits between the two and solves the specific problems that push people toward custom in the first place.

You get catalog cabinets in standard sizes, with real modification available: adjusted depths and heights, a much wider selection of colors and finishes, and most of the interior organizers. 

Typical spend runs $8,000 to $20,000, and lead time lands in the middle, since the order goes into a production queue.

FAQ

Can I mix stock and custom cabinets in one kitchen?

Yes, and it’s a smart budget move. Use stock on the long, regular perimeter walls and go custom on the island or the one tricky corner where fit matters. Matching colors across both takes a careful eye, so handle it during design.

Are custom cabinets worth it in a small kitchen?

Usually, yes. Small kitchens benefit most because custom cabinets remove filler space and maximize storage.

Do cabinets have to be ordered before demolition?

They should be. Cabinet lead time drives the whole schedule, and gutting a kitchen before the boxes are confirmed is how 4-week projects become 10-week ones.

Talk to the People Who Upgrade Cabinets Every Week

Call us at or message us here. We’ll show you what stock, semi-custom, and custom cabinets can look like in your actual space, with a fixed cost for all three options. 

Our kitchen remodeling service covers design, cabinetry, and installation with a 5-year workmanship warranty.

Here’s what we’d tell any Bell County homeowner a few weeks out from starting a kitchen renovation.

1. Name the Problem Before You Name the Style

Every kitchen has one thing that drives you up the wall: a fridge door that blocks the walkway, two feet of usable prep counter, an island that pushes traffic into the cooking zone.

Write that down before you consider a design style. A layout that fixes the real complaint feels right in ten finish schemes, and it’s the first thing your contractor should hear.

2. Let Cabinets Set the Budget Ceiling

Cabinetry takes the biggest bite of the budget, so it sets what’s realistic for everything else. 

Our recent kitchen projects range from $18,000 to $100,000 and up, with cabinets alone landing around $3,000 to $8,000 for stock, $8,000 to $20,000 for semi-custom, and $25,000 and up for full custom.

Choose your cabinet tier in week one, and you’ll skip three rounds of re-pricing.

3. Order Long-Lead Items Before Demolition

Cabinets, countertops, and appliances are the materials most likely to sit in a queue, and none of them care that your kitchen is already gutted. 

A good contractor won’t start demo until the slow items are confirmed.

4. Do the Rough-In Work While Walls Are Open

Adding island circuits, relocating a gas line, or moving a drain costs a fraction of what it does once drywall is up again.

List every electrical and plumbing change you might want in the next decade, then use that list to decide with your contractor what’s worth doing now. 

Texas requires licensed trades for electrical work, so ask who’s pulling the wire and confirm their credentials before the drywall goes back up.

5. Plan Lighting in Three Layers

Most dim kitchens have one light source in the middle of the ceiling. Three layers of lighting fix that:

• Ambient light spreads brightness across the room, usually recessed cans or a flush-mount fixture on a dimmer.
• Task light goes where you’re cooking and reading recipes: under-cabinet strips over the prep counter, plus dedicated lighting above the range and sink.
• Accent light picks up what you spent money on, like glass-front uppers or a tile wall you’d rather not lose in shadow.

6. Check the Home’s Age Before Anyone Sands Anything

If your house was built before 1978, painted surfaces may contain lead. 

The EPA’s Renovation, Repair and Painting rule requires that anyone paid to perform work that disturbs paint in pre-1978 housing be certified in lead-safe practices.

Ask early. It affects containment, cleanup, and how the demo phase gets priced.

7. Set Up a Temporary Kitchen

Plan on several weeks without a working kitchen, and consider where you’ll set one up. 

A folding table, the microwave, a coffee maker, and a bin of the twenty items you use daily covers most of it.

8. Get the Scope in Writing, Including What Happens When Things Change

The biggest source of remodel friction is the mid-project surprise. Read how the contract price changes, and make sure nothing moves without your written sign-off.

We built our Gill Guarantee around that problem. The contract price is fixed, and we don’t bill for changes without your written approval. Every project also carries a 5-year workmanship warranty, well past the 1-year term common in the industry.

Questions We Get Asked Every Week

How long does a kitchen remodel take?

Most kitchen projects take 6 to 12 weeks of active work once materials are on site. Design, ordering, and permitting happen before that clock starts.

Should flooring go in before or after cabinets?

For most tile and engineered flooring, cabinets set on top of the finished floor. That costs slightly more material and makes future appliance swaps much easier.

Do I need a permit for a kitchen remodel?

If you’re moving walls, plumbing, or electrical, then the answer is yes. Bell County cities each run their own building department, and we handle filing and inspections as part of the job.

Are custom cabinets worth it in a smaller kitchen?

Often, yes. In small kitchens, stock sizes waste space with filler strips, while custom cabinets make use of every inch.

Show Us Your Kitchen, and We’ll Tell You What’s Possible

Call us at or message us here to tell us what your kitchen gets wrong every morning. We’ll measure the space, design a layout that solves it, and give you a fixed number before demo starts. 

Our kitchen remodeling work covers design, permits, and construction under one roof. When you get to materials, our guide to choosing a kitchen backsplash is a great next stop.

The difference usually comes down to a handful of decisions made early, before a single cabinet is ordered.

Most of these mistakes aren’t dramatic. They’re small oversights, like a peninsula that eats up circulation space or a misplaced outlet. But they add up fast, and fixing them after the fact costs far more than getting them right the first time.

1. Underestimating How Much Storage Space You Need

Homeowners tend to plan storage around what they own today, not around how a kitchen actually gets used week to week. 

A few things worth building around from the start:

• Pull-out organizers for corner cabinets instead of a fixed shelf you have to crawl into
• Deep drawers near the cooktop for pots, pans, and lids, so they land within arm’s reach of where you’ll use them
• A dedicated spot for small appliances like a toaster or mixer, so the counter doesn’t become permanent storage

If cabinetry and organizers are the piece you’re still deciding on, our granite and marble comparison also touches on how countertop choice affects how much usable counter space you keep long term.

2. Placing Appliances and Outlets Without Thinking Through the Layout

This is one homeowners rarely catch until the kitchen is finished and they’re standing in it. 

Whether it’s a refrigerator door that swings the wrong way or electrical outlets placed for looks rather than for where the coffee maker or stand mixer is, these common issues make it important to plan carefully.

Cooking is also the single biggest cause of house fires nationwide, which makes appliance placement more than a convenience question. Keeping stovetops clear of flammable materials and outlets properly rated for kitchen appliances isn’t optional.

3. Skimping on Task Lighting Over the Workspace

General overhead lighting looks fine in photos, but it leaves the counter, sink, and food preparation zones dim exactly where you need to see what you’re doing. 

Under-cabinet task lighting is one of the cheapest additions during a remodel and one of the most noticeable once it’s missing.

4. Forgetting That the Kitchen Island Needs Room to Breathe

A kitchen island can be the best thing you add to a kitchen or the reason two people can no longer pass each other while cooking. 

Before committing to size, walk off the space around it with the appliances open, dishwasher door down, oven door open, and cabinet doors swinging. 

If it feels tight on paper, it will feel tighter in real life.

5. Not Setting Aside Budget for Change Orders

Plumbing, electrical, and structural surprises show up behind walls more often than homeowners expect, especially in older homes. 

A remodel with zero cushion for change orders tends to stall the moment something unexpected turns up. Building in a buffer from the start keeps the project moving.

Once you’ve nailed down the layout, flooring is usually the next decision homeowners get stuck on. Our guide to choosing the best flooring for a kitchen remodel breaks down what actually holds up to daily cooking and cleaning. And if you want a full walkthrough of the process start to finish, our kitchen remodel checklist covers each phase in order.

FAQ: Kitchen Renovation Mistakes 

How much does a kitchen remodel cost?

Costs vary widely based on scope and materials. Gill Construction’s kitchen remodels have ranged from around $18,000 for smaller updates to $100,000 or more for full, high-end renovations.

Do I need to move out during a kitchen remodel?

Most kitchen remodels require full access to the space, so setting up a temporary kitchen elsewhere in the home for the duration of the project is the standard approach.

How long does a full kitchen remodel take?

A smaller refresh typically takes 2 to 3 weeks. A full kitchen remodel usually runs 6 to 8 weeks from start to finish.

What’s the biggest mistake homeowners make when planning a remodel?

Skipping the layout planning stage. Rushing straight to cabinet colors and countertop samples before mapping storage, appliance placement, and circulation space is what causes most of the regrets later.

Or Skip the Guesswork and Let Us Map It Out for You

Reading through all of this is one option. Handing the planning to a team that’s done it 50+ times across Central Texas kitchens is another. 

Gill Construction’s kitchen remodeling services cover the full design-build process, from layout and cabinetry to permits and final walkthrough, backed by a 5-year workmanship warranty.

Call us at or message us here to talk through your kitchen and skip straight to the part where it actually works for how you live.

If your yard gets brutal afternoon sun and you want the space usable rain or shine, lean toward a patio cover. If you want a lighter, airier structure that still defines the space, a pergola is probably a better fit. 

The right answer really comes down to your climate, your budget, and how you plan to use the space day to day.

Pergola vs. Patio Cover: Key Differences at a Glance

What is a Pergola?

A pergola is an open-air structure built with vertical posts and a slatted or open roof design. Instead of blocking the sun completely, it filters it. 

You get dappled, filtered shade rather than a hard shadow, which keeps a patio bright without turning it into a sauna.

Wood pergolas remain popular for their warmth and texture, and they pair beautifully with climbing vines like jasmine or wisteria. Metal and aluminum versions have picked up steam too, mostly because they hold up longer with less upkeep.

Some homeowners take it a step further with a louvered pergola. Motorized louvers let you rotate the slats and control sunlight on demand, so you get adjustable shade instead of a fixed amount. 

When you add a retractable canopy underneath, you’ve basically built a shade structure that adapts to whatever the day throws at you.

What is a Patio Cover

A patio cover works differently. Instead of an open roof structure, you’re looking at a continuous roof, often with insulated panels, that provides complete protection from rain, wind, and direct sun. 

If your priority is full weather protection rather than partial shade, patio covers excel.

In Central Texas, where summer heat sticks around for months, the difference between filtered light and full coverage isn’t just cosmetic. It changes how often you actually use the space.

Cost, Upkeep, and Long-Term Value

A pergola is generally cheaper to build since it uses fewer materials and a simpler frame. Fewer support posts, less roofing, less structural engineering. 

A solid patio cover, with its continuous roof and insulated panels, usually requires a larger upfront investment, but it also delivers superior protection against rain and intense sun.

Either way, low maintenance matters. Most homeowners want something that maintains its structural integrity for decades, not something that needs to be restored or patched every other summer. 

Aluminum and TEMO fiberglass and insulated panel systems are built for exactly that. Both options tend to boost curb appeal and home value too, since a well-built outdoor structure signals that a house has been cared for.

Matching the Structure to Your Outdoor Living Goals

Think about how you actually want to use the space before you pick a side. 

A pergola works well as a decorative focal point over a seating area, especially once you add string lights, ceiling fans, or an outdoor kitchen nearby. It stays open, airy, and connected to the rest of the yard.

A patio cover suits homeowners who want a defined outdoor area they can use no matter the forecast. Built-in lighting, recessed lighting, and a freestanding structure with real weather protection turn that covered patio into a second living room.

If you’re also weighing a deck into the mix, our deck building services pair naturally with either option and give you a solid foundation to build the whole outdoor space around. 

And if you’re still torn between an open structure and something more enclosed, our blog on pergolas vs. gazebos walks through a related comparison worth reading before you commit.

FAQ: Pergola vs. Patio Cover

How do I know which one is right for my yard?

It depends on your local climate and how much sun your patio gets. Yards with intense, direct afternoon sun usually do better with a solid roof. Yards that just need a little relief and a defined outdoor area often do fine with an open pergola.

Can a pergola offer more protection?

Yes. Adding a retractable canopy or upgrading to a louvered pergola with motorized louvers gives you more control over sunlight and some protection from light rain, without committing to a fully enclosed roof.

Which one adds more to my home’s value?

Both add value when built well. A patio cover often reads as a bigger investment because of the complete protection it offers, but a well-designed pergola with quality materials holds its own, especially as a decorative focal point.

Let Us Help You Make the Call

Reading through roof styles, materials, and cost breakdowns is one way to spend an afternoon. Talking to someone who’s built pergolas, patio covers, and outdoor structures across Central Texas for years is another. 

We’ll walk your property, talk through your outdoor living goals, and help you land on whichever option fits your yard, your budget, and how you actually plan to use the space, not just what looks good in a photo. 

Check out our pergolas and patio covers page for pricing details and finished projects, or call us at or message us here to get a straightforward quote.

Ask the right questions early, and you’ll walk into your first meeting already knowing whether a contractor is the right fit. Here are ten to bring with you.

1. How Many Kitchen Remodels Have You Completed?

Anyone can call themselves a general contractor. What separates experienced contractors from someone learning on your dime is a track record you can verify. 

Ask for a rough count of completed projects from the last year or two, not just a career total, since materials and codes shift over time. If the answer is vague, that’s worth noticing.

2. Do You Pull the Necessary Permits and Handle Local Building Codes?

Building permits protect you, not just the city. They confirm that plumbing, electrical, and structural work meet current standards, and skipping them can create real headaches when you sell your home later. 

A professional contractor should pull permits themselves and walk you through what your project needs. Licensing rules vary by trade too. 

3. Who Will Be My Main Point of Contact?

Once demo starts, your kitchen becomes a construction zone, and you’ll want one person to call when questions come up, not a rotating cast of subcontractors. 

Ask whether you’ll have a dedicated project manager for the entire process, and find out their communication style. Some contractors send daily texts, others prefer a weekly call. Neither is wrong, but you should know which one you’re getting before you sign.

4. What Does Your Payment Schedule Look Like?

A detailed contract should tie your payment schedule to actual project milestones, not arbitrary dates. What to look out for:

• Upfront deposit: Ten to thirty percent to secure materials is standard. A demand for full payment before work starts is not.
• Mid-project payments: These should line up with completed stages, like demo or rough-in, not vague requests for more cash.
• Final payment: This is due once work meets your approval, not before the punch list is finished.

5. What’s a Realistic Timeline for My Kitchen?

Timelines depend heavily on scope, so ask for a range instead of a single date. A cabinet refresh might wrap in two to three weeks. A full remodel involving a new layout, plumbing moves, and custom cabinetry can run six to eight weeks or longer. 

Also, ask what could push the date out. Backordered appliances and old wiring behind a wall are common culprits, and a good contractor will tell you about these possibilities up front.

If you’re reconsidering your existing layout entirely, our kitchen layout ideas guide walks through how different footprints affect both cost and build time. 

6. How Do You Handle Change Orders?

Change orders come up in almost every remodel. Maybe you decide to upgrade your countertops, or the crew finds an issue once the walls are open. 

Ask how these get documented, what the approval process looks like, and how quickly you’ll see updated costs. 

7. Can You Provide Proof of Insurance and Workers’ Compensation?

Confirm the contractor carries general liability insurance and workers’ compensation coverage, and ask for documentation rather than taking their word for it. It’s a small ask that helps protect your own home if someone gets hurt on-site.

8. Can I See Photos of Similar Projects and Talk to Past Clients?

Look for a portfolio with projects similar in scope to yours, whether that’s a full gut job or a lighter refresh. Then, ask for two or three references you can actually call. 

Reviews online are useful, but a five-minute conversation with a past client tells you far more about how a contractor communicates and solves problems mid-project.

9. What Happens If Something’s Missing from the Contract?

Before you sign anything, walk through the scope of work line by line. A detailed contract should cover materials, finishes, the timeline, and payment terms clearly enough that nothing gets left to memory.

 Our kitchen remodel checklist is a solid starting point for organizing your must-haves and budget before that meeting.

10. How Will You Communicate with Me During Construction?

Clear communication is the difference between a smooth remodel and a stressful one. Ask how often you’ll get updates, whether that’s a quick text after each workday or a scheduled call, and who to reach if something feels off. 

You’re inviting people into your home for weeks. It’s fair to know exactly how that relationship will run.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if a contractor is trustworthy?

Check reviews, ask for proof of insurance, and confirm they pull their own permits. A trusted kitchen remodeling contractor won’t hesitate to answer these questions.

Should I choose the lowest bid?

Cutting corners on materials or labor to hit a low number often costs more in repairs down the road. Compare scope of work first, then price.

Or, Skip the Interview Process Entirely

Reading through ten questions is a good exercise, but it’s also exactly the kind of legwork we handle for our clients every day. 

If you’d rather talk through your own home’s project with a team that already checks every one of these boxes, call us at or message us here.

Those numbers vary widely depending on square footage, how much plumbing, gas line, and electrical work is involved, and whether you’re after laminate countertops or custom cabinetry.

What a Home Remodel Costs, Room by Room

Real project numbers tell a better story than averages. Here’s what recent remodels by Gill Construction have looked like across different project types.

Want to run your own numbers before you call anyone? Our kitchen remodel cost calculator and bathroom remodel cost calculator can give you a starting estimate based on your own square footage and finish level.

Why Home Remodeling Pricing Ranges Are So Wide

Two homeowners can describe the same project, a kitchen remodel, say, and land $60,000 apart. It’s just the nature of construction. 

A kitchen with new cabinets and countertops in the existing footprint costs far less than one where a wall comes down and the plumbing moves across the room. 

Structural changes touch electrical systems, gas lines, and sometimes the load-bearing walls holding up the rest of the house.

Material choices swing things, too. Laminate countertops and stock cabinetry sit at one end. High-end materials, custom cabinetry, and energy-efficient appliances sit at the other. 

Scope, structural work, and finish level are the three biggest levers, and all three are personal decisions that only get made once you sit down and talk through the project.

Financing a Home Renovation Project

Most homeowners don’t pay for a remodel entirely out of pocket, and that’s normal. 

• A home equity loan or line of credit lets you borrow against the value you’ve already built, often at a lower rate than other options. 
• A cash-out refinance replaces your existing mortgage with a larger one and hands you the difference in cash. 
• Personal loans work well for smaller projects like a bathroom refresh, since they close faster and don’t touch your mortgage at all. 

Whichever route fits your situation, it helps to know your total project cost range before you apply, so you’re not guessing at a lump sum.

Always Budget for the Unexpected

Every renovation budget needs room for the unplanned. Older Bell County homes, in particular, tend to hide a few surprises once the walls open up. 

A smart budget usually sets aside:

• 10-15% of the total cost for unexpected costs, like the electrical wiring nobody knew was outdated
• Building permits and inspections, which your contractor should handle rather than leaving that on you
• Labor costs and labor rates, which shift depending on how much plumbing work or electrical work the project needs

If you’re not sure where to begin sorting all of this out, our guide on where to start with a home remodel walks through prioritizing your must-haves before you request a single bid. 

And if a kitchen is next on your list, our kitchen remodel checklist breaks down the whole process, room by room.

FAQ: Home Remodeling Cost in Central Texas

How much does a bathroom remodel cost in Central Texas?

Most bathroom remodels here run $8,000 to $70,000. A simple tub-to-shower conversion sits toward the lower end. A full renovation with custom tile, new cabinetry, and a walk-in shower runs closer to the top.

Does a kitchen or bathroom remodel add more value?

Both add real value. Which one returns more depends on your local market, your home’s current layout, and how outdated the space was to begin with. It’s worth asking a local pro rather than assuming either room wins by default.

Do I need a building permit for a whole house renovation?

Yes, in most cases. Structural changes, new plumbing, and electrical work all require permits through your city’s building department, and a licensed contractor should pull them on your behalf.

Get a Number You Can Plan Around

Ranges are useful for setting expectations, but they can’t tell you what your specific kitchen, bathroom, or addition will cost. 

If you’d rather skip the spreadsheet and get a real number, call us at or message us here, and we’ll help you turn all of this into an actual plan for your home.

A conventional bathroom keeps things compartmentalized: an enclosed shower or a bathtub sits in a defined corner, with dry areas around it for the toilet, vanity, and storage.

The better fit depends on your space, your household, and what you’re actually willing to spend.

Wet Room vs Bathroom At A Glance

What Goes Into a Wet Room

The thing most people underestimate about wet rooms is how much proper construction they require. 

Thorough waterproofing covers not just the floor but the walls, the drain placement, and the slope of the entire room, working together to keep water where it belongs.

Getting those details wrong leads to moisture building up inside the walls over time, which is exactly the kind of damage that doesn’t show up until it’s already expensive to fix.

Non-slip tiles matter just as much as the waterproofing. A completely open floor without a raised lip sounds freeing, but a wet floor with inadequate drainage is a fall risk. 

The Case for a Conventional Bathroom

Classic bathrooms still make a lot of sense for most households. Separate shower rooms or enclosed showers keep steam contained, dry areas stay dry, and the toilet paper survives the morning routine unscathed.

For families with kids, or anyone sharing a bathroom with constant foot traffic, those defined zones are genuinely practical. 

Enclosed showers also stay warmer without underfloor heating, which matters in a Texas winter more than you’d think. 

And if a freestanding tub is part of the vision, keeping the rest of the space dry only makes that tub feel more intentional as a focal point rather than just wet furniture.

A traditional bathroom remodel also tends to cost less upfront, since wet rooms require full waterproofing of the entire space, special materials rated for continuous moisture, and precise floor sloping. 

That said, the average price for either type ranges widely depending on fixtures, layout complexity, and what’s already there.

When a Wet Room Is Worth It

Some situations are a genuinely good fit for the wet room format:

• Small spaces where a separate shower enclosure makes the room feel cramped and visually busy
• Households with accessibility needs or anyone planning for aging in place, since the level floor removes the entry barrier entirely
• Homeowners after a spa-like experience without the cleaning gymnastics around glass shower doors
• Renovations with resale value in mind, since a well-built wet room reads as a premium feature to most buyers

The sleek style holds up over the long term, but only if the waterproofing was done correctly from the start. A poorly executed wet room leads to mold growth behind walls faster than almost any other bathroom failure mode.

Curious about what a bathroom remodel actually looks like from week one to handoff? This walkthrough covers the full bathroom remodeling timeline.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a wet room harder to maintain than a traditional bathroom?

Not particularly. Wet rooms have fewer corners and grout lines than tiled shower enclosures, making cleaning faster. The regular habit of squeegeeing the walls and floor after each use prevents moisture buildup over time.

Can a toilet go in a wet room?

Yes, and it’s common. Most wet room designs either position the toilet away from the main drain zone or use a half-wall to separate the wet and dry areas. Wall-mounted holders placed outside the spray zone easily solve the toilet paper situation.

Do wet rooms add property value?

A well-built wet room typically adds to resale value, especially in higher-end homes or markets where buyers expect premium finishes. A poorly waterproofed one does the opposite, and quickly.

What kind of tiles do wet rooms need?

Non-slip tiles with a textured surface are standard for wet room floors. The entire space needs special materials rated for continuous moisture exposure, and larger format tiles with fewer grout lines tend to be easier to keep clean long-term.

How does the overall cost compare?

Wet rooms usually cost more upfront due to full waterproofing requirements and drainage systems. 

Let Someone Else Handle the Waterproofing Math

Reading about drainage slopes, tile ratings, moisture barriers, and floor-level thresholds is one thing. Executing all of it correctly inside an existing bathroom is another conversation entirely.

If you’re in Bell County and trying to figure out which direction makes sense for your home, Gill Construction handles the whole process, from the initial design and renderings through the final build. 

Call us at or message us here, and we’ll work through the options with you.

It’s the most common bathtub style in residential homes because the logic is hard to argue with. The alcove configuration uses the footprint you already have, and a shower curtain turns the whole thing into a shower-tub combination without altering the plumbing layout. 

Why Alcove Tubs Work for Most Bathrooms

Here’s what else makes alcove bathtubs the default for most remodels:

• Easier installation. Less labor-intensive than drop-in or freestanding setups, which keeps project timelines and costs predictable.
• Shower compatibility built in. Add a curtain rod or a glass enclosure and you have a fully functional shower tub combination in the same footprint.
• Solid grab bar mounting points. The surrounding walls provide reliable attachment points for grab bars, which is important for aging-in-place planning or for family members dealing with mobility issues.
• Fits tight spaces. For bathrooms under 80 square feet, an alcove tub uses the available space instead of fighting it.

If accessibility is part of your planning, the U.S. Access Board’s bathing room standards outline precisely where grab bars should be placed relative to the tub rim and back wall.

Alcove vs Freestanding Tub

Freestanding tubs are genuinely beautiful. They sit in open space, draw the eye, and feel like something you’d find in a hotel suite. The catch is that they need that open space to work. 

In a bathroom that can’t support it, the effect tips from luxurious to crowded surprisingly fast.

Here’s a straight comparison:

For a bathroom that serves double duty as a shower and a soaking space, the alcove wins on practicality almost every time. Freestanding tubs are the right call in large primary bathrooms where there’s genuine extra floor space to play with.

Alcove Tub Material Options

The material shapes the feel of the bath, the weight on your floor, and how long the tub holds up.

• Acrylic is the most popular choice in residential remodeling right now. Lightweight, warm to the touch, and easy to repair if it scratches. The color is consistent throughout the material, so minor surface damage doesn’t become a cosmetic disaster.
• Fiberglass is the most affordable option and the lightest to install. It’s less durable than acrylic and tends to show wear sooner, but it’s a reasonable fit for guest bathrooms or spaces that see lighter use.
• Cast iron is the material that makes tubs last for decades. It retains heat better than any other option, feels genuinely solid underfoot, and holds up through multiple renovation cycles around it. Heavier materials like cast iron do require reinforced flooring and professional installation. Manufacturers like American Standard produce both cast iron and acrylic alcove models across a range of configurations and price points.
• Enameled steel lands between fiberglass and cast iron in terms of price and durability. The enamel surface is smooth, chip-resistant under normal use, and easy to clean.
• Stone resin is a newer option made from natural stone aggregate. It retains heat exceptionally well, has a matte finish that reads as premium, and is less common in alcove setups but worth considering for a primary bathroom overhaul.

What Alcove Tub Installation Involves

The tub goes into the alcove, gets fastened to the surrounding walls, and connects to the drain and overflow. Then the walls get waterproofed and tiled. 

The sequence is logical. The waterproofing step is where things go wrong when they go wrong.

Moisture that gets behind the tile on the surrounding walls can sit there undetected for years. By the time it shows up as soft drywall, mold, or structural damage, the repair cost has grown well past what proper waterproofing would have cost upfront. 

If you’re already retiling a bathroom, that’s the right time to replace the tub as well. Running both projects at once saves a meaningful amount of labor time.

Most American bathroom layouts were built around the standard alcove tub footprint, which is part of why replacement and upgrade projects tend to go smoothly. 

According to the U.S. Census Bureau construction data, the majority of new single-family homes include at least two full bathrooms, and alcove-style tub configurations remain the most common setup in both.

For a week-by-week picture of what a full bathroom renovation actually looks like on the ground, this breakdown of the bathroom remodel process covers each phase in plain terms. 

If you’re on the fence about keeping the tub at all, our bathroom conversion ideas blog walks through the options worth considering.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the standard size of an alcove bathtub?

Most alcove tubs are 60 inches long and 30 to 32 inches wide. That’s the dimension most bathroom layouts are designed around, which is one reason replacing or upgrading an alcove tub is simpler than switching to a different bathtub style entirely.

Can an alcove tub function as a shower?

Yes, and that dual function is one of the main reasons the style is so popular. A curtain rod or a frameless glass door fits across the open front, and a showerhead is installed in the plumbing on the same wall. The surrounding tile handles the waterproofing when done correctly.

How long does an alcove bathtub last?

It depends on the material. A well-maintained acrylic tub typically lasts 20 to 30 years. Cast iron can outlast multiple renovations around it. Fiberglass shows wear earlier, particularly in high-traffic bathrooms. Enameled steel falls somewhere in between with consistent maintenance.

At Some Point, It’s Just Faster to Call Someone

The team at Gill Construction handles every part of the process, from initial design to final fixture, with a 5-year workmanship warranty on all bathroom remodeling work. 

If you want to see what the bathroom remodeling process looks like before committing, these are the questions worth asking any contractor first.

Ready to get started? Call us at or message us here.

Start With Your Space, Not Pinterest

Before you fall in love with a dramatic marble slab or a geometric tile pattern you saw online, look at what you already have. 

Your countertops, cabinetry, flooring, and appliances all speak a visual language. A good backsplash listens to that language instead of talking over it.

If your kitchen already has a bold granite countertop with heavy movement, a neutral backsplash with soft texture lets the counters breathe. Busy on busy rarely ends well. 

On the flip side, plain white cabinets and simple porcelain counters can absolutely handle a patterned tile, a rich color, or even a full slab of natural stone.

Think of the backsplash as the wall that quietly ties the whole space together, not the one fighting for attention.

Popular Backsplash Materials, Side by Side

Not every tile performs the same way behind a stove or near the sink. Here’s a practical look at the most popular options:

One thing homeowners often overlook: grout color matters as much as tile color. A dark grout on white subway tile creates definition and depth. A matching grout nearly disappears. Neither is wrong, but they produce two completely different looks.

Matching The Backsplash To Your Kitchen’s Style

Every kitchen has a personality. The backsplash should fit it.

Contemporary kitchens tend to favor large-format porcelain tiles, full-slab stone, or sleek glass in muted tones. Clean lines, minimal grout, quiet texture.

Traditional kitchens love handcrafted ceramic, classic subway tile, or natural stone with visible veining. The warmth adds character, and the materials feel honest.

Transitional kitchens, the most popular style right now, sit somewhere in the middle. A simple white subway tile in a herringbone pattern, or a soft marble hex in neutral colors, can read equally at home with shaker cabinetry and brass fixtures.

A quick checklist before you commit:

• Does the backsplash color sit inside the room’s existing color palette?
• Will the grout color be easy to maintain near the stove and sink?
• Does the tile scale match the size of the wall? (Small mosaic tiles on a large wall can feel busy, and large format tiles in a tight space can feel overwhelming)
• Does the texture complement your countertops? A heavily veined marble backsplash beside a heavily patterned granite countertop competes instead of cohesing

If you’re thinking through the bigger picture of how your kitchen layout and workflow affect material choices, our blog on kitchen layout ideas is a good companion read.

How To Choose Backsplash Colors Without Overthinking 

Neutral backsplash options, whites, warm creams, soft grays, and greiges, work in nearly every kitchen because they let the cabinetry and counters do the talking. They also age well. 

Trends in bold colors come and go. A neutral tile installed today still looks intentional fifteen years from now.

That said, color done right can add warmth and visual interest in a way that a plain tile simply can’t. A deep sage-green ceramic tile, a soft terracotta tile, or even a navy-blue tile can turn a cooking area into something genuinely beautiful. 

The key is staying in conversation with the rest of the room’s palette. The easiest way to do this is to pick up a color that already appears in the floors, cabinetry, or appliances.

If you’re putting together a full kitchen remodel and want help thinking through how backsplash, countertop, and cabinet choices work as a system, our kitchen remodel checklist lays out every decision in the right order.

FAQ

What is the most popular kitchen backsplash tile right now?

Subway tile holds its ground as the most consistently chosen option across all kitchen styles, but large-format porcelain tiles and textured ceramic are gaining serious momentum in 2026, especially in contemporary kitchens.

Does my backsplash have to match my countertops?

It doesn’t have to match, but it does have to coordinate. Think complementary rather than identical. A warm marble countertop pairs naturally with a warmer cream tile, while a cool quartz often works better with a gray, white, or glass backsplash.

How do I choose a backsplash for a small kitchen?

Light colors, smooth surfaces, and tiles with some sheen reflect light and make the space feel bigger. Avoid overly busy patterns in a tight cooking area since they can make walls feel like they’re closing in.

If the room still feels dim, look at your kitchen light fixtures before choosing a darker backsplash. Better lighting can change how the tile color reads throughout the day.

Is natural stone a good choice for a kitchen backsplash?

Yes, with the right maintenance routine. Marble, travertine, and granite add warmth and an elegant natural look that’s hard to replicate. They just need to be sealed at installation and periodically thereafter, especially near the stove and sink.

What color grout should I use?

Matching grout to the tile creates a uniform, seamless look. Contrasting grout adds definition and makes the pattern more prominent. Near the stove, a medium or darker grout tends to age more gracefully than bright white, which shows stains.

Let Someone Else Handle All of This

Choosing a kitchen backsplash sounds manageable until you’re standing in a showroom holding tile samples under fluorescent lights, trying to imagine how they’ll look next to cabinets that are still at home. 

If you’d rather hand the whole thing over to someone who’s helped design over 50 kitchens across Central Texas, that’s exactly what Gill Construction is here for. 

From the backsplash tile to the countertops, custom cabinetry, and full layout, we handle every piece of your kitchen remodeling project so you can skip the stress and get straight to enjoying it.

Call us at or message us here to talk through your kitchen.

As life changes, those small inconveniences become real hazards. 

These aging-in-place bathroom features are worth prioritizing: a curbless or low-threshold shower, properly anchored grab bars, non-slip flooring, a comfort-height toilet, lever-style faucets, and task lighting that reaches every corner. 

Why You Should Address The Shower First

According to the CDC, falls are the leading cause of injury for adults aged 65 and older. Replacing a traditional tub with a walk-in shower or a curbless shower significantly reduces that risk.

A few things make these showers genuinely work well for aging in place:

• A built-in bench on the side wall so someone can shower seated without needing a portable seat that slides around
• A handheld showerhead on an adjustable slide bar so the water comes to where you are, however you’re positioned
• A low-threshold entry, preferably under two inches, or flush with the floor, for anyone using a walker or wheelchair

If someone in the household genuinely loves a good soak, a walk-in tub with a sealed interior door is a reasonable option. 

Many include heated seats and air jets, which make them comfortable well beyond their safety benefits. That said, most people end up preferring the curbless shower once they’ve actually used one.

Aging-in-Place Bathroom Features: A Side-by-Side

Here’s a snapshot of the most common aging-in-place bathroom upgrades, what problem each one solves, and roughly how involved they are to add:

Installing grab bars is consistently one of the highest-return changes in this whole category. 

The design options have improved significantly over the years, and you can find styles in matte black, brushed nickel, or brushed gold that look completely intentional next to standard fixtures. 

Floors, Faucets, and Other Details That Matter

Non-slip flooring should cover the entire bathroom, not just the shower. 

Textured porcelain tiles with slip-resistant ratings look entirely normal and work well in any bathroom style. Smaller tiles with tighter grout lines naturally create more traction without any visual trade-off.

Lever-style faucets at the sink are a low-cost change with real payoff for anyone dealing with arthritis or reduced hand strength. The same logic extends to pocket doors, which eliminate the swinging-door hazard entirely in tight spaces and also free up floor space.

Comfort-height toilets sit a few inches taller than standard models, making sitting down and standing up considerably easier. Pair that with a grab bar on the adjacent wall, and you’ve addressed one of the most frequently overlooked trouble spots in the room.

Lighting deserves more attention than it usually gets in these conversations. Task lighting directly above the toilet, shower, and vanity eliminates the shadow zones that turn ordinary navigation into guesswork in the middle of the night. Motion-activated options are worth the slightly higher cost for anyone who gets up in the dark regularly.

These upgrades fall under what architects and occupational therapists call universal design principles, a framework for building spaces that work well across a wide range of abilities and life stages. 

If you’re still in the research phase, our blog on the bathroom remodeling process walks through what to expect from demo day through the final walkthrough.

But before you hire anyone, it’s worth going through our guide on questions to ask a contractor before your bathroom remodel, so you know what to look for and what to avoid.

Frequently Asked Questions

How wide does a doorway need to be to accommodate a walker or wheelchair?

For a wheelchair, 36 inches is the recommended minimum, since that nominal width provides the 32-inch clear opening required by accessibility standards. Widening doorways is one of the more involved upgrades on this list, but it’s a one-time structural change that pays off.

Are grab bars and towel bars interchangeable?

No, and the difference matters. Towel bars are mounted to drywall anchors designed to hold a damp towel. Grab bars are anchored into wall studs or reinforced blocking and rated to support a person’s full body weight during a fall. Using a towel bar as a grab point is a common and genuinely dangerous mistake.

We Can Take It From Here

If you’d rather hand off this project to a team that handles bathroom remodels regularly, that’s exactly what Gill Construction does. We handle everything from the initial design and renderings through final installation, with a 5-year workmanship warranty.

To see what’s possible for your space, check out our bathroom remodeling services. When you’re ready to move forward, call us at or message us here.